The easiest place to sample the delights of Gilani cuisine is the centrally located Kourosh. Start with the murky-looking but very tasty zeitun parvardeh (olives in walnut paste) and share some mirza ghasemi (dip-like pureed charcoal eggplant with garlic and tomato) before hoeing into a torche kebab (lamb and/or chicken coated in a sour marinade). Then waddle home.