Hezardestan is one of Iran’s most beautiful teahouse-restaurants, with a museum-like basement full of of carpets, samovars, antique metalwork and countless knicknacks around a small fountain. The menu is limited to ghormeh, chicken kabab, dizi or mashed halim bademjan (lamb and mashed aubergine). Beware when ordering tea: while a cup costs IR23,000 the tea 'set' costs ten times that (IR230,000).

There’s live music most nights. The manager speaks some English.