Jovial and very knowledgeable, Hossein Vatani offers numerous tour options but specialises in arranging trips to the Kaluts that include camping in the desert. Basic one-night excursions for one/two/three people cost €100/120/150 (including food and tents).

He's also the founder of a nascent ecotourism association that plans to train guides in specialist fields, including caving and nature and desert tours. His new office is upstairs in the small shopping centre beside Bank Maksan opposite the northwest exit of the coppersmiths' bazaar. At the top of the steps turn right; his office is at the end.