Lodging in Zein-o-dinCaravanserai Zein-o-din
After a three-year renovation, during which 13,000 pumice stones were used to scour centuries of grime from the walls, this simple accommodation was pared back almost to its original state. The carpeted platforms that function as rooms are screened from the corridor by curtains. The welcome is somewhat hit-or-miss but the food is good, with hot and cold buffets. Reservations are essential. It is possible to visit the caravanserai without staying or eating, although it has to be said that there is not that much to see in the building itself. Stairs lead to the roof, however, which affords expansive views across the desert plains. Standing here on a hot, hazy day when the mirages ripple along the horizon, it's possible to imagine caravans of camels issuing from the east, laden with the luggage of their precious merchandise. It would have made for a noisy evening of grumbling and unloading, tethering (the tether points are still visible) and animal tending, eating and drinking before the whole caravan would pack up and move on again in the morning.