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Border Crossings

The Norduz (Iran) customs yards occupy an otherwise unpopulated sweep of rural valley. Moneychangers on the Iranian side buy and sell Armenian dram (US$1 equals 390 dram) as well as dollars and rials for around 5% below bank rates. One or two taxis usually wait outside the Iranian border compound asking US$10 to Jolfa. From within the compound you’ll pay US$5 more.

Walking distance from customs on the Armenian side is Agarak village. Armenian 14-day tourist visas (US$50) or three-day transit visas (US$40) are available at the border, but the process might take a while – annoying if you’re on one of the through buses (Yerevan–Tehran via Tabriz). Hopefully, the bus driver will wait for you. On the Armenian side Aries Travel coordinates pleasant homestays in Meghri, a 15-minute, 4000-dram taxi ride away. From Hotel Meghri, near central Meghri, there’s a 9am minibus to Yerevan (9000 dram, nine to 11 hours) and a 7.30am bus to Kapan (2000 dram, two hours).