West Sumbawa is dry and rolling. Beaches are wide, sugar-white, and framed with domed headlands. Bays are enormous and dynamic: they can be tranquil one hour and fold into overhead barrels the next. Sumbawa Besar is a humble Muslim town with a good morning market. Pulau Moyo, a lush jewel off the northern shore, has revered diving and snorkelling, but it’s difficult to access on a budget. Watch for small Balinese villages near the coasts.