West Sumbawa is dry and rolling. Beaches are wide, sugar-white and framed with domed headlands. Bays are enormous and dynamic: they can be tranquil one hour and fold into overhead barrels the next. Sumbawa Besar, the largest city here, is a humble and devoutly Muslim place with a good morning market. Pulau Moyo, a lush jewel off the northern shore, has revered diving and snorkelling. Once solely the domain of the rich and famous, it now has options for travellers on any budget.