D'Sumba Ate

International in Waikabubak

This cool, bamboo restaurant cooks up wood-fired pizzas, pasta and burgers alongside the usual Indo suspects. If you know what's good for you, you'll eat ayam betutu kampung dan urap, a Balinese-spiced village chicken with plenty of condiments and coconut greens. It's also the only place in town where you'll get a latte fix.

Take the wooden bridge over the pond to Kakitangan Spa, a simple operation by the same folk with massages from 50,000Rp per hour.