Pantai Lakey, a gentle crescent of golden sand, is where Sumbawa’s tourist pulse beats, thanks to seven world-class surf breaks that curl and crash in one massive bay, and a string of modest beach guesthouses, all linked by a sandy path studded with bars that contribute to the perfect beach-bum ambience. It's hard to appreciate the malevolent image this place once had for the locals, before the surfers moved in and the mosquitoes were brought under control.
Hu’u is a small, poor, and very friendly fishing village, 3km north of Lakey. Neat and shady, suffused with the scent of drying fish and blessed with breathtaking pink sunsets, it's the nearest public-transport node to Lakey.
The area is the centre of a push to increase tourism on Sumbawa. New roads mean you can now easily drive east from Hu'u, and north to Bima via Parado, enjoying some superb sea views along the way.