A country market town, home to thatched clan houses and rows of concrete shops, administrative buildings and tin-roof homes sprouting satellite dishes, Waikabubak makes Waingapu feel like a metropolis. It’s a welcoming place, surrounded by thick stands of mahogany and lush rice fields. At about 600m above sea level, it’s cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of West Sumba.
The food market is on daily from 7am until 10pm. On your way here from Waingapu, about 15km out of town, look out for Bukit Raksasa Tidur (Sleeping Giant Hill) – no prizes for guessing what the landscape looks like, but it's a great photo opportunity.