A country market town, home to both thatched clan houses and rows of concrete shops, administrative buildings and tin-roof homes sprouting satellite dishes, Waikabubak makes Waingapu feel like a metropolis. It’s a welcoming place, surrounded by thick stands of mahogony, and at about 600m above sea level, it’s a little cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of West Sumba. The big...
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