If you're heading into the hills, know that homestays can usually be negotiated in any village for anywhere between 50,000Rp to 150,000Rp per person, which will generally include a simple breakfast and dinner. For lunch, ask around; someone will surely offer to make you a meal for around 25,000Rp. Bring plenty of water and/or a water filter and warm clothes.
Your best route-finder is an offline satellite image on your phone (bring a backup charger) second only to the professional-quality hand-drawn maps created by the owner of Ramayana Inn in Mamasa.
Our favourite routes:
- Mamasa–Orobua–Ulusalu–Karaka'–Bittuang Three to four days; a new take on an old classic, this Mamasa–Toraja trek gets you off the road and into the forest. You may want a guide between Orobua and Ulusalu.
- Taupe–Ulumambi–Rantelemo–Mambi Three days; as if the scenery above Mamasa wasn't perfect enough, this route takes in Sambabo, a super-tall waterfall.
You could do worse than spending a day exploring the Balla district southwest of Mamasa: get dropped off at Pena and head north past the Tedong Tedong Minanga to Buntu Balla and Ballapeu' – chock full of traditional homes – before retracing your steps, or continuing east to Ballakalua' and Osango and back to the main road.
An option from the north end of Mamasa takes in superb rice paddy and river valley views, as well as a few historic graves. Head direct from Mamasa up Buntubuda road to Loko before crossing west to Taupe and returning back to Mamasa. It's a straightforward trek you won't regret.