South of Taliwang, the beaches and bays try to outdo one another. Your first stop is the working-class commercial district of Maluk, 30km south of Taliwang. Yes, the town is ugly, but the beach is superb. The sand is a blend of white and gold, and the bay is buffered by two headlands. There’s good swimming in the shallows, and when the swell hits, the reef further out sculpts perfect barrels.
Directly south of Maluk, within walking distance of the beach (though it is a long walk) is Supersuck, consistently rated the best left in the world. Surfers descend regularly from Hawaii's North Shore to surf here – which should tell you something – and many lifelong surfers have proclaimed it the finest barrel of their lives. It really pumps in the dry season (May to October).