Welcome to Gunung Lawu
Although popular history has it that when Majapahit fell to Islam, the Hindu elite all fled east to Bali, Javanese lore relates that Brawijaya V, the last king of Majapahit, went west. Brawijaya’s son, Raden Patah, was the leader of Demak and led the conquering forces of Islam against Majapahit, but rather than fight his own son, Brawijaya retreated to Gunung Lawu to seek spiritual enlightenment. There he achieved nirvana as Sunan Lawu, and today pilgrims come to the mountain to seek his spiritual guidance or to achieve magic powers.
The unique temples on the mountain – some of the last Hindu temples built in Java before the region converted to Islam – show the influence of the later wayang style of East Java, though they incorporate elements of fertility worship. The most famous temple is Candi Sukuh. Candi Cetho is another large complex that still attracts Hindu worshippers.
The small tea-farming village of Kemuning makes a pleasant gateway to both temples, with a few teahouses with tasty kitchens and one rather alluring guesthouse to consider, if you just can't bear to leave.