Find the easily missed Tashi Delek doorway, then walk past colourfully ornate Tibetan patterning to this wide, open terrace with decorative foliage and fabulous valley views: a perfect setting for a sunset drink.
Central Gangtok's most alternative little bar has seats like midget sofas with stuffing coming out, a little performance space and murals of Marley, Lennon and Hendrix.
Moodily lit with pacey music, and walls chock-a-block with black-and-white portrait photos, The Square pulls off a clever balance between family-friendly and comfortably contemporary vibes.
This sweetly unpretentious cafe, little more than the family's front room, serves wickedly good organic tongba (hot millet beer, ₹100).
This couple-friendly, bamboo-walled perch offers fascinating views down onto the main bazaar street or across the city from a single rear table.
The main cafe often has blaring TV but head straight through for three shaded, balcony tables with fine mountain-valley views.