The parallel north–south valleys of Lekir, Yangthang, Hemis Shukpachan and Timishgan together make up Sham. Long visited by trekkers as part of the three-day Sham 'baby trek', newly paved roads now connect the valleys, offering a fine new option for motorcyclists and mountain bikers.
Yangthang is the smallest village, with a timeless traditional core. Hemis Shukpachan is 10km west of Yangthang, clustered around a modern golden Buddha. Around 500m down the lane descending south to Hemischu, the Laga Rapsal Homestay has a one-room 'museum' (entry by donation) that's worth a look. The town gets its name from its grove of ancient shukpa (juniper) trees.