Leh to Diskit

The Nubra road zigzags up stark bare-rock mountains for around 1½ hours to Khardung La, which at 5602m is claimed (disputably) to be the world’s highest motorable pass. Descending again, look for dzo (a cow and yak cross-breed) around the pretty pond known misleadingly as Tsolding Buddha Park. Army posts at south and north Pallu check permits and passports at Km24 and Km53.

After Khardung village (Km72), a good lunch stop, the scenery takes on a stark grandeur, with splendid Shayok Valley views at Km86. Khalsar (Km95) was ravaged in 2015 by floods but there are still a couple of small restaurants; one 2km beyond Khalsar offers rafting on the Shayok River.