Run by a very hospitable family, this long-running place has been hosting happy travellers for years; the house dates back to 1875. Spacious rooms with high ceilings and arty touches are in two blocks at the rear of the leafy garden. Good breakfasts and drinks are available.
Ask Maria to show you her amazing mineral and crystal collection, introduce you to her chai-swilling dog Poojari or to give you the room that Life of Pi author Yann Martel slept in. At the time of writing, due to new online registration requirements for foreign guests, they had temporarily stopped accepting foreigners due to unreliable internet connections. Call ahead!