Lucknow's most accommodating budget option is in the leafy neighbourhood home of Naheed and her family, who keep their distance but offer six rustic rooms – four with private bathrooms. Breakfast is included with your stay. There's a sign in front – enter and go up one flight of stairs. Book ahead – it's popular for long stays.
Rickshaw drivers know Mall Ave, which is actually a neighbourhood (not merely an avenue), but you'll need to orient yourself upon arrival if you want to find your way back home, as the address is amid the maze if you enter the neighbourhood from anywhere other than the Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd side. Better yet, get to know Naheed's favourite rickshaw driver: the honest, reliable and English-speaking Guatam.