Entered beside a 2000-year-old Buddha stela, this tiny, mudbrick house with a historic ground-floor shrine was saved from demolition and brilliantly restored in 2006. Stone steps lead to a cafe with floor seating and a small art display; a ladder stairway continues to an open roof terrace. Serves French-press coffee (₹50), khambir (Ladakhi bread) sandwiches (₹70), apricot pudding (₹60), local juices, and fruit or mint lassis.

Next door, crushed into his atmospheric mini-workshop, a wizened coppersmith fashions Chilling-style spoons and asks ₹20 if you take his photo.