On the northeast corner of the clock tower square is the Rathi Haveli. On the western wall, a European woman in a smart red frock sews on a treadle machine. The European influence is much in evidence here, with painted roses and a Grecian column effect. On the southern side of the haveli are ostentatious flourishes and the British Crown flanked by unicorns. On the eastern side are some blue-eyed British soldiers and a train station.
On the western side of the haveli there’s a busy set of chai stalls – a good place to sit down and admire these extraordinarily over-the-top paintings.