One of Central Kargil's few appealing restaurants is hidden upstairs in the overrated PC Palace Hotel. The Indian food is excellent, though the rather soulless place often has the atmosphere of a morgue.
With Chinese lamps creating an intimate glow, this pleasant upstairs eatery offers a fairly wide-ranging menu that's served with ₹200 beers.
Staff seem lethargic but manage to turn out relatively appealing Tibetan dishes (try the mixed momo thukpa), a good roasted cheese potato and fat-but-crispy banana pancakes. It's right on the central crossroads.
This unpromising shack next to the J&K Tourism Bungalow offers surprisingly tasty aloo mattar (curried potato with peas) or rice with rajma (kidney beans).