The large, 19th-century Raghunath Mandir marks the heart of older Jammu and features several pavilions containing thousands of what look like grey pebbles set in concrete. In fact, these are saligrams (ammonite fossils) symbolically representing the myriad deities of the Hindu pantheon.

Requests for donations are almost as plentiful. You’ll be asked to deposit bags, cameras, phones and even pens before entering.