Sonam's Homestay

Guesthouse in Khecheopalri (Kechuperi) Lake

Rooms are bare-boards but this wonderful homestay has a magic that entrances, with games to play, hoops to hoop, great organic food and a library of books in assorted languages. There's even a photo board to remember previous travellers who've stayed here.

The house is easy to find at the top of the major (left-fork) trail up from the Khecheopalri Lake car park; signs say 'Home away to home' before you reach the stupa. Sonam's wizened father, Pala, a monk who left Tibet with the Dalai Lama in 1953, leads meditation practice (and has his own simple guesthouse next door).