Delhi has been reincarnated multiple times, with seven cities' worth of history to explore; eight, if you include British-era New Delhi.
Red Fort The defining monument of Mughal Delhi; scarred by its tumultuous history; protected by gargantuan walls.
Qutab Minar Complex The extraordinary remains of Delhi's first Islamic city.
Tughlaqabad A magnificent seemingly long-forgotten, ruined fortress.
Purana Qila The well-preserved 'Old Fort' is where Emperor Humayun fell to his death.
Rajpath The ghosts of colonial-era governors walk the grand arcades now occupied by the Indian government.
Gandhi Smriti The great hero of Indian Independence spent his last days here, assassinated on the grounds by a Hindu zealot.
Delhiites love to eat and socialise, and here superb options range from street carts to five-star extravaganzas.
Karim's Hidden down an alley near the Jama Masjid, serving rich, meaty dishes passed down from Mughal times.
Natraj Dahi Balle Corner Join the buzzing queue on this street corner for fried lentil balls and spiced potato patties.
Dhaba The latest dining hotspot in Paharganj. Delicious, down to earth and cheap!
Potbelly Climb four floors for a Bihari-cuisine treat to remember.
Indian Accent Masterfully creative modern Indian cuisine in sumptuous surrounds.
Rajdhani Serious contender for Delhi's best thali (set-meal platter).
DLF Cyber Hub Gurgaon's food-and-drink complex offers a dizzying array of cool designed eateries.
Delhi's many Islamic rulers each left their mark on the city, with beautiful tombs, mosques and public projects.
Qutab Minar Complex The capital of the Delhi sultanate is encrusted with carved calligraphy and dominated by the world's largest brick minaret.
Humayun's Tomb The final resting place of the emperor Humayun was a prototype for the Taj Mahal.
Mehrauli Archaeological Park Sprawling into scrub forests, the less-famous cousin to the Qutab Minar offers more ruins and even more atmosphere.
Hauz Khas A trendy enclave of cafes, bars and boutiques that sprawls around the ruins of Feroz Shah's tomb and an ancient Islamic school.
Agrasen ki Baoli This 14th-century step-well is a surprising discovery on the edge of Connaught Place, with 103 steps descending into the cool darkness.
Delhi's markets and ancient bazaars are as much cultural experience as retail therapy.
Chandni Chowk Old Delhi's most famous bazaars lead off this main drag, and are crowded with vendors, shoppers and porters.
Khan Market India's most expensive retail space, favoured by high-society Delhi, yet a world away from the sanitised glitzy new malls.
Main Bazaar Traveller hub Paharganj is packed with shops and stalls stacked with almost everything you can think of.
Majnu-ka-Tilla Delhi's Tibetan enclave is a traffic-free maze of tight alleyways dotted with cafes and Buddhist-related souvenir shops.
Shahpur Jat Village An arty, urban village of eateries and clothing boutiques, located within the boundaries of the ruined Siri Fort.
Dilli Haat A ticketed arts-and-crafts market for the metropolis, with vendors hawking exquisite creations from all over India.
The capital has some of India's best museums, exploring everything from the Mughal Empire to the history of the toilet.
National Museum Fabulous collection spanning thousands of years, with everything from Buddha's relics to armour for elephants.
National Rail Museum A trainspotter's delight, this museum has carriage-loads of charm, much of it outdoors.
Nehru Memorial Museum The former home of the first Indian prime minister overflows with photographs and has a 14th-century hunting lodge in the garden.
Crafts Museum A glorious space full of tribal artworks and traditional crafts, often with artisans demonstrating their art.
Sanskriti Museums Little-known but great, largely outdoor collection of terracotta, sculpture and textiles.
Sulabh International Museum of Toilets A voyage through the history of sanitation, with a social message.
India's lifeblood is religion, and its capital is packed with spectacular temples, mosques, shrines and gurdwaras.
Jama Masjid Built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, Delhi's largest mosque has room for 25,000 faithful.
Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Sikh pilgrims throng this handsome gurdwara, where the eighth Sikh guru tended to Delhi's most desperate citizens.
Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah This tomb of a revered Sufi mystic resounds with the hypnotic tones of qawwali songs.
Majnu-ka-Tilla The small Buddhist temple in Delhi's Tibetan enclave hums with chanting Tibetan monks each morning and evening.
Akshardham Temple Delhi's biggest and most extravagant Hindu temple erupts in a riot of statuary.
Bahai House of Worship With a marble lotus-flower design, this modern temple is designed to bring different faiths together in peaceful contemplation.
All places of worship are free, unless you count the ₹300 you have to pay for taking a camera (or camera phone) into Jama Masjid. But there's plenty of great free stuff besides.
Lodi Garden Delhi's loveliest escape is a lush, tree-shaded park dotted with striking Mughal tombs.
Agrasen ki Baoli Hauntingly atmospheric, this 14th-century step well is a surprising monument to find hidden among Connaught Place office towers.
Chandni Chowk The maze of old-city bazaars leading off Chandni Chowk are fascinating to explore even if you aren't here to shop.
Hauz Khas An arty market with coffee shops and clothing boutiques plus Mughal ruins that overlook a forest-fringed lake.
Mehrauli Archaeological Park Overlooked by many tourists, this sprawling, forested park is home to charmingly dilapidated relics of the second city of Delhi.
National Gandhi Museum A small but moving museum that preserves some of Gandhi's personal belongings.
Sulabh International Museum of Toilets A quirky museum that not only traces the history of India's loos but also works in the community to improve sanitation.