Walking is the best way to get around, but take extreme care at all times – it's mayhem on many of the streets.
Take a walking tour to get your bearings. Street Connections runs one of the most rewarding; tours are guided by former street children.
Tuck in to Old Delhi's famous Dilli-ka-Chaat (street-food snacks). If you're not sure what to order, follow the lead from the locals – there will always be someone in the queue delighted that you're taking an interest.