About 5km north of Chandor is the small village of Curtorim, another of Goa’s many peaceful pastoral places. If you’re passing through, stop to have a look at the Church of St Alex, a large whitewashed affair with a rusty tin-roofed porch and a lovely, lavish interior, which looks out serenely onto a vast lily-studded lake. It’s one of Goa’s oldest churches and makes a grand spot to break a countryside journey.