Assamese cuisine has a range of subtle flavours all its own, without excessive use of chillies, but creative with plenty of other spices and herbs. Fish in its many avatars occupies a prominent place in the repertoire, but there's plenty of duck, pigeon, chicken and pork too. Assamese thalis are the perfect way to sample a range of tasty dishes, and are usually available in either vegetarian or non-veg versions.


Fish is prepared in all textures and flavours, from the sour-curry fish tenga and smoked fish to fried fish and fishlings curried with seasonal vegetables. The spectrum is just as wide for poultry and pork, which can be cooked inside bamboo tubes or banana leaves, barbecued (khorikaa), doused in mustard gravy or served with delicious sesame-seed sauce. Don't miss alu pitika, mashed potato flavoured with mustard oil and coriander.