Worth the splurge, this classy, ground-floor restaurant has a fin de siècle air, with mirror-lined walls and ornate stucco trim. The multicuisine menu is dominated by Mughlai favourites – the house speciality is delicious mugh tawa frontier (morsels of chicken in a dense onion gravy). It also has a decent wine list.

Upstairs is the Crystal Restaurant Plaza, run by a rival branch of the same family and serving the same menu in more modern surroundings. Outside is a no-nonsense takeaway joint where you can enjoy some of the same dishes whilst standing up at high, roadside tables.