Dalmoth is Agra’s famous version of namkin (spicy nibbles). Peitha is a square-shaped sweet made from pumpkin and glucose that is flavoured with rosewater, coconut or saffron. You can buy it all over Agra. From October to March look out for gajak, a slightly spicy sesame-seed biscuit strip.

Taj Ganj Area

This lively area directly south of the Taj has plenty of budget rooftop restaurants, where menus appear to be carbon copies of one another.

Sadar Bazaar

This area offers better restaurants and busy chaat stands, making for a nice change from the please-all, multicuisine offerings in Taj Ganj.

Chaat Galli

Fans of street food should make a beeline for the Sadaar Bazaar district . Not only will you find multiple outlets of Mama Chicken, but you can fill up in the nearby chaat galli (snack alley), home to a dozen excellent street-food stalls.

First port of call is Agra Chat House, the oldest of the street stalls, or the next-door Agarwal Chat House, to invest in a selection of aloo tikki chaat (fried potato croquettes with tamarind sauce, yoghurt, coriander and pomegranate), dahi bada (dumplings with yoghurt and tamarind), chila mong dal (lentil pancake), bhalla (croquette of green bean paste with yoghurt and chutney) or galgapa (little puri shells filed with flavoured sauce). At around ₹50 a dish you can afford to explore the simple menus.

For dessert, several nearby stalls sell delicious mango or kaju pista (cashew and pistachio) kulfi ice creams, as well as refreshing falooda (cold dessert of rosewater, vermicelli, jelly and milk).

As if that wasn't enough, just round the corner is Panchhi Peta a tiny branch of Agra's most famous peitha shop, offering to-go boxes of Agra's famous sweet.