While everyone's gaze naturally turns inland in this spectacular part of Iceland, there are reasons to look offshore too – in particular to the 76m-high Ingólfshöfði (pronounced in-golvs-hurv-thi) promontory, rising from the flatlands like a strange dream.

In spring and summer, this beautiful, isolated nature reserve is overrun with nesting puffins, skuas and other seabirds, and you may see whales offshore. It’s also of great historical importance – it was here that Ingólfur Arnarson, Iceland’s first settler, stayed the winter on his original foray to the country in AD 874.