Across Steingrímsfjörður from Hólmavík, Drangsnes (drowngs-ness) is a remote little town with views across to North Iceland and the small uninhabited island of Grímsey. The town is well worth a detour for a memorable waterside hot-pot, a rock stack linked to troll legends and birdwatching boat trips.

North of Drangsnes, rough Rte 645 winds around a series of gorgeous crumbling escarpments and tiny driftwood-filled bays. There are no services on this route, but if you’ve got your own vehicle, the utter tranquillity, incredible views and sheer sense of isolation are truly remarkable. For those interested in the sagas, you’ll be keen to know that Njál’s Saga starts here.