Climb up cobbled Vár köz from Tinódi Sebestyén tér to reach the castle, erected in the 13th century after the Mongol invasion. Models, drawings and artefacts like armour and Turkish uniforms in the Castle History Exhibition, on the 1st floor of the former Bishop’s Palace (1470), painlessly explain the castle's story. On the eastern side of the complex are foundations of the 12th-century St John’s Cathedral. Enter the castle casemates hewn from solid rock via the nearby Dark Gate.

Below the Bishop’s Palace a statue of local hero István Dobó takes pride of place in Heroes’ Hall (guided visits only). The terrace of the renovated Dobó Bastion (1549), which collapsed in 1976, offers stunning views of the town; it now hosts changing exhibits. Have a look at the creepy dungeon nearby. Other attractions cost extra, including the hokey Panoptikum (Waxworks; adult/concession 500/350Ft) and two 3D films (eight and 15 minutes; one/two films 300/600Ft). Alternatively, you can just wander the castle grounds, which are also open Monday, when most exhibits are closed.