Szatmárcseke

This village is the site of a famous cemetery with intriguing prow-shaped grave markers. To get here from Tarpa, cross at the Tivadar, turn east and carry on another 7km northeast.

The 1200 carved wooden markers that resemble up-ended prows are unique in Hungary; the notches and grooves represent a complicated language detailing marital status, social position and so on. No one knows how the tradition (which is still carried on today) started, but scholars generally agree it’s not Finno-Ugric (ancestral Hungarian). One of the stone markers in the cemetery is that of native son Ferenc Kölcsey (1790–1838), who wrote the lyrics to Himnusz, the Hungarian national anthem.

The Szatmár Fogadó on the main road at the turning to the cemetery has six rooms, and hearty meals from 2500Ft.