Sights

Bissau Velho (Old Bissau), a stretch of narrow alleyways and derelict buildings, is 'guarded' by the Fortaleza d'Amura. The rebuilt neo-classical presidential palace and brushed-up Assembleia Ministério da Justiça are architectural expressions of the country's hopes for order and democracy.

Worth a detour in a taxi is the Volta de So Paulo; this road bypasses the chaos of midday Bandim market and makes sense if travelling between Bissau Velho and the airport. There are truly beautiful views of bolanhas (rice fields), providing something of a rural panorama amid the city.