When buildings age in the tropics, with cracking paint and creeping vines, they take on a sort of romantic glow. So it goes for this converted colonial-era army barracks. Lemon, mango and palm trees shade the pathways snaking through this 5-hectare property of low-slung sunset-coloured buildings. Furnishings are old-fashioned, but the pool area is the nicest in town.
Mario, the hotel's sales manager, is a dynamo of helpfulness and information and seems to know everyone in town. Ask for him if in need of travel advice.