Welcome to Kangerlussuaq
Standing at a lonely crossroads in Kangerlussuaq, you'll feel right at the edge of the world. For this isolated settlement borders the icecap covering 80% of Greenland, where the relatively stable and green part of the country transforms abruptly into a desert of permanent ice.
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My legs are starting to go numb, but I daren’t move. I’m crouching behind a lichen-splattered rock in one of the world’s last great wildernesses, western…