Worth a Trip: Port Victor
To watch an enormous glacier calve hunks of ice into the sea, solitude-seekers can take a boat to remote Port Victor. 70km north of Ilulissat, this tiny harbour was formerly a base for French polar expeditions and the derelict base camp hut of explorer Paul-Émile Victor still stands. Visiting Eqip Sermia, the 4km calving glacier, is possible as a day-trip from Ilulissat (from Dkr1875) though the boat ride can take five hours each way. Boats stop for two hours in front of Eqip Sermia, allowing travellers to listen for the distant grumble of glacial activity and feel the spray of falling ice. A better option is staying for a night or two at Glacier Lodge Eqi, wilderness accommodation with huts from basic to en-suite. Hiking trails spiral out from the lodge for superlative views of the glacier, as well as wildflower meadows and craggy coast. Some of the treks are perilous so join guided walks organised at the lodge, sign out before undertaking a walk of any length, and bring plenty of water.