Sights

Immediately south of Myrina, Plati is a long sandy beach with plenty of decent hotels, but virtually no restaurants. The nearest are up the hill at Plati village or in Myrina.

Tucked into a giant rock cavity on top of a hill, the Church of Panagia Kakaviotissa is totally worth the 20-minute hike from the village of Thanos, 4km south of Myrina. Further along the southwest coast, Kontias is a charming village of windmills and stone houses, and home to the celebrated Kontias Gallery of Modern Balkan Art. Sadly closed at the time of research, it might be open when you visit, so ask locally.

From Kontias, the main road continues east to the village of Portianou. The chair Winston Churchill sat on while commanding the Allied offensive at Gallipoli is the most venerated item at the village's lovely Folklore Museum. Victims of the man's strategic gaffes lie at Portianos Military Cemetery nearby. Four kilometres away, the Old Russian Cemetery at Cape Punda is the final resting place for more than 300 White Russians; they were interned on the islands by Allied troops, living in terrible conditions and dying of hunger and disease.

The road north leads to a cluster of mountain villages around Sardes, which boasts an outstanding taverna. Beyond them, lies a desolate coast famous for its dunes, an unusual sight for Greek islands.

North of Myrina, the road left after Kaspakas village accesses the appealing Agios Ioannis Beach, with a few tavernas and beach houses set nicely beneath an overhanging volcanic slab.