In recent years, accommodation options have exploded in the Mani. While the region still retains its old-fashioned vibe, with some budget-focussed, family-friendly guesthouses, the restored Maniot towers tend to offer luxury, high-end sleeps. In smaller fishing villages, it's not unusual to see casual domatia abutting a posh, restored tower-cum-boutique hotel.

Feature: Maniot Tower Houses

Dotted around the Mani, particularly around Kakavoulia (or inner Mani), scores of stone towers rise eerily from the landscape. Some are solitary; some stand in clusters. Some are intact and fortress-like; others are crumbling. From the 17th century until well into the 19th century, the Mani was ruled by clans with chieftains, with bloody feuds constantly fought over what little fertile land there was. These towers were family fortresses. Feuds between warring clans were fought according to strict rules of engagement, the objective being the destruction of the rival's tower and the deaths of the male members of the rival's family. Male children were known as 'guns' (what else would they be useful for?) and women were exempt from the feuds; after all, someone had to till the fields and bury the dead.

Today, a growing number of towers are being restored beyond their former glory and turned into unique places to stay.