Worth a Trip: The East Coast

The east coast of the Mani peninsula is even more rugged and barren than the west. The main town is the formidable-looking Lagia, 12km northeast of the Alika turn-off. Perched some 400m above sea level, it was once the chief town of the southeastern Mani, and some of its towers stand derelict.

From Lagia, the road winds down with spectacular views of the little fishing harbour of Agios Kyprianos – a short diversion from the main road. The next village is Kokala, a busy place with two pebbled beaches. The best beach is further north at Nyfi, where a turn-off to the right leads to sheltered Alipa Beach. Continuing north, a turn-off beyond tower-studded Flomochori descends east to Kotronas, while the main road cuts west across the peninsula to Areopoli.