Pretty Agia Irini Gorge starts some 13km north of Sougia. The well-maintained, mostly shaded 7.5km trail (with a 500m elevation drop) follows the river bed, is shaded by oleander, pines and other greenery, and passes caves hidden in the gorge walls. You’ll emerge at a taverna where you can call a taxi (€15) or continue on foot for another 7km via a quiet, paved and sunny road to Sougia.

Of course, it’s also possible to do the hike in reverse. To get to the trailhead, take the bus to Hania and ask the driver to drop you off or take a taxi.