At azure-blue Cape Petritsa, 1.5km south of Atsitsa, the coastal road turns inland, finding the sea again at sandy Agios Fokas Bay, with a taverna and great swimming.

A beautiful horseshoe-shaped beach graces Pefkos Bay, 10km southeast of Atsitsa, where you can lunch at Stamatia's Taverna. Nearby, the beach at Aherounes has a gentle kid-friendly sandy bottom, along with two tavernas and domatia.

The southernmost corner of the island is a windswept landscape partly restricted by a Greek naval station. From Tris Boukes Bay, a rough dirt road (4WD recommended) leads to Renes Bay, from where a 5km hiking trail skirts a coastal plateau, ending at the lighthouse at Cape Lithari. Small herds of wild Skyrian horses are often glimpsed here, along with rare Eleonora’s Falcons that nest in the steep cliffs nearby from April to October.

The picturesque port village of Atsitsa on the island’s west coast occupies a woody shoreline setting. There's an outpost of the alternative learning Skyros Centre here, and the organic Sunset Cafe overlooks the bay. Two kilometres north, find the excellent roadside taverna Cook-Nara.