The beach at the port of Alopronia is lovely – sandy, with some shade and a children’s playground. It looks straight out at Santorini.

A narrow, dramatic bay with a small sandy patch, Agios Nikolaos Beach is a 20-minute walk through the countryside from the port. To find it, follow signs to Dialiskari. A path leads further on to Agios Georgios, or you can reach it by sealed road (7km).

Summertime caïques (about €6) run to beaches, including Malta in the north (which boasts ancient ruins on the hill above) and Kara in the south.