On the southeast coast, the fishing hamlet of Faros has fish tavernas and a couple of nice beaches nearby, including Fasolou, reached up steps and over the headland from the bus stop.

Platys Gialos, 10km south of Apollonia, has a big, generous beach entirely backed by tavernas, hotels and shops. Vathy, on the southwest coast, is a low-key resort village on an almost circular bay of aquamarine beauty.

Not to be missed is the walled village of Kastro, 3km east from Apollonia. The former medieval capital is a magical place of buttressed alleyways and whitewashed houses surrounded by valleys and sea. It has a modest archaeological museum, and the small port and pebble beach of Seralia is nestled below.