Serifos has a raw, rugged beauty, with steep mountains plunging to broad ultramarine bays. Relatively deserted outside the quaint hilltop capital of Hora or the dusty, Wild West–feeling port of Livadi down below, the island feels like it’s gone beautifully feral. All that you find are the occasional remnants of past mining enterprises (rusting tracks, cranes) and the whoosh of the wind (which can be fierce). Rent wheels to make the most of it. Serifos is one of the few islands where locals drink the water.
In Greek mythology, Serifos is where Perseus grew up, bringing back the Medusa's head to save his mother from the unwanted romantic attentions of Polydectes, and where the Cyclopes were said to live. There’s some fine walking on Serifos, and plenty to explore below the waves too.