Supercharming Plaka (population 749), 5km uphill from Adamas, embodies the Cycladic ideal, with its white houses and labyrinthine lanes perching along the edge of an escarpment. Plaka was built on the site of Ancient Milos, which was destroyed by the Athenians and rebuilt by the Romans. It meanders straight into the settlement to the south, Trypiti (population 540).

Plaka’s main church courtyard has spectacular views and gets packed out for sunset in high season.

Walks in this area are popular, especially from Plaka to Trypiti and down to Klima. Off the road to the catacombs, a dirt track leads to the spot where a farmer found the Venus de Milo in 1820; it’s marked by a sign. A bit further along, the well-preserved Roman theatre hosts the Milos Festival each summer, and footpaths lead down to Klima or onto the promontory with ancient stone walls and two small churches.