Worth a Trip: Mylopotamos

The delightful little village of Mylopotamos nestles into a small valley 13km north of Hora (Kythira). The tables of an utterly charming kafeneio (coffee house), O Platanos, fill its tiny central square, which is flanked on one side by the walled channel of a babbling stream, populated by tame ducks and geese. As it flows away northwest towards the sea, that stream cuts ever deeper into the wooded hillside, along a gorge that once held 22 separate watermills. Only one now survives – Mylopotamos means ‘Mill on the River’ – but a ravishing little footpath still follows the river, leading through luxuriant greenery to the aquamarine pool of the Neraïda ('water nymph') waterfall.

A separate hike, signposted along the left-hand fork in the road north of the village square, takes 15 minutes to reach the older village of Kato Hora. Make your way behind a castellated 19th-century villa here and you’ll find the extraordinary ruins of Mylopotamos' Venetian-era kastro, a quite magical warren of abandoned churches and fortified houses, liberally overgrown with colourful flowers.