An easy 2km walk along the sandy coast road east of the port leads to Porta, Finikas and Fanos beaches. All tend to become swamped with grilling bodies in July and August, and nudity becomes more overt the further you go.

Beyond Fano, a walking path leads to several rocky swimming places, including the glorious Piscina, a swimming hole surrounded by rock that is linked to the sea. The path then continues to the great bay at Pori, where a long crescent of sand slides effortlessly into the dreamy clear sea. Pori can also be reached by an inland road from Hora.

Other Islands

The flat profile of uninhabited Kato Koufonisi is just to the south of Ano Koufonisi and a short caïque ride away. If you've come by ferry from Schinousa, you'll have passed its entire length on your way to Ano Koufonisi. Kato Koufonisi has some beautiful beaches and a lovely church.

East of here is the dramatic Keros, a rugged mountain of an island with towering cliffs. Archaeological digs on Keros have uncovered more than 100 Early Cycladic figurines, including the famous harpist and flautist now on display in Athens’ National Archaeological Museum.