The village has the white-sand Ammos Beach, though nicer beaches are found further east and south. A 1.2km (15-minute) walk along the sandy coast road east of the settlement brings you to the sandy Finikas Beach, with calm waters and a taverna, passing a couple of rocky coves en route. Fanos Beach, a five-minute walk east around the headland, has a beach bar and some shade. Another five minutes along the coast is Italihda Beach, a favourite with naturists (though nudity generally becomes more overt the further east you go).

Beyond Italihda, the path skirts another headland and passes several rocky swimming places, including the deep and clear Piscina (10-minute walk), a swimming hole surrounded by rock that is linked to the sea. From there it's another 10 minutes to the yacht-dotted bay at Pori, where a long crescent of sand slides effortlessly into the clear sea and there's a taverna and a cafe. Pori can also be reached by an inland road from Hora.

Off the Beaten Track: Kato Koufonisi & Keros

The flat profile of uninhabited Kato Koufonisi is just to the south of Ano Koufonisi and a short caïque ride away – Prasinos Boat Tours will get you there. Kato Koufonisi has several pristine beaches along the south side of the island, connected by a rugged walking trail: the coves of Laki and Panaghia share a tavern between them, while the beautiful sweep of Nero beach is an energetic 45-minute walk away, past the sheltered Dhetis cove.

Directly across the water is the dramatic Keros, a rugged island with towering cliffs – off-limits due to archaeological digs. Recent finds include more than 100 Early Cycladic figurines, including the famous harpist and flautist now on display in Athens’ National Archaeological Museum.