Along the trails that flow from Konitsa (ko-nit-sah), only the crunch of hiking boots interrupts birdsong and rushing water. This sprawling village is carved into a hillside 60km north of Ioannina. It's where trekkers return to share tales of bird sightings and gorge views over a chilled Mythos beer. Greek hunters also use Konitsa as a sort of cowboy depot.

Beyond Konitsa, the road arcs northeast to Kastoria. While still passable, this road can be tricky to navigate, especially at night.