Most charismatic is Kastoria's historic Doltso neighbourhood. This romantically creaky quarter has several restored 18th- and 19th-century mansions housing museums and tavernas. Admire colourful and timbered arhontika (mansions), including the splendid Skoutaris and Picheon mansions. Signposting around the old town explains the former resident families.
For more architectural gems, walk along Chrystopoulou (parallel to the shore) for the post-Byzantine churches of Agios Ioannis Prodramos and Agios Loukas. Grand brick-built Byzantine Agioi Anargyroi, on the corner of Gousi and Anargyron, is perhaps the finest church in Kastoria.