None of the beaches on Kasos offer shade. The best is the isolated pebbled cove of Helatros, near Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, 11km southwest of Fry, but you’ll need your own transport to reach it. In the summer months it has a fabulous food canteen run by the owner of Giaeli. Otherwise, there's no facilities. There’s another tiny but decent beach, Avlaki, in walking distance.

Agia Marina, 1km southwest of Fry, is a pretty village with a gleaming white-and-blue church that celebrates a festival on 17 July. You can grab a coffee or a meal at the friendly To Steki. Beyond it, the road continues to verdant Arvanitohori, with abundant fig and pomegranate trees and one of the island's most gorgeous kafeneio. It is also home to some prettily renovated houses. Panagia, 1km southeast of Fry, has an unusual series of six linked red-roofed, Byzantine churches; these are locked, but well worth seeing for the setting alone. Poli, 3km southeast of Fry, is the former capital, built on the ancient acropolis but there's not much here to see. For the most extraordinary views, head to Agia Kyriaki, east of Poli, as well as Moni Agiou Mamas, where a festival is held every September 2nd. This area gives you a good idea of how harsh and barren the landscape is and evokes the sense of how people survived off the land in former times.